Sensitive skin: how to care for it properly

What is sensitive skin?

Sensitive skin is a state of heightened reactivity in which the skin responds to stimuli that do not usually cause any discomfort. Studies report that up to 60–70% of women and 50–60% of men describe their skin as sensitive. It is not a dermatological diagnosis in its own right but a functional state related to an impaired protective barrier of the epidermis. Underlying it are a deficiency of lipids in the stratum corneum, reduced ceramide levels and a disturbed skin microbiome, which leave the skin vulnerable to external factors.

Types of sensitivity and their causes

Skin sensitivity can have several origins. Understanding the cause helps in choosing the right care strategy:

• genetic sensitivity: an inherited feature of thin, fair skin with an insufficient lipid barrier. This skin type reacts to minimal stimuli — wind, changes in temperature, even water. It is more common in people with Fitzpatrick phototype I–II.
• acquired sensitivity: the result of aggressive care — overuse of peels, retinoids, alcohol-based toners, alkaline soap. The skin barrier is damaged and the skin becomes reactive even to familiar products that were previously well tolerated.
• seasonal sensitivity: flares occur at particular times of year — in winter because of frost and dry heated air, in summer because of ultraviolet light and sweating. Between flares the skin may behave entirely normally and need no special care.
• triggers of reactivity: abrupt changes in temperature, hard water, fragranced products, essential oils, preservatives (methylisothiazolinone, formaldehyde), alcohol in cosmetics, synthetic fabrics, stress and lack of sleep.

Signs of sensitive skin

Sensitive skin presents as a combination of subjective sensations and visible changes. The most common symptoms are a feeling of tightness, tingling and burning, particularly after applying cosmetics or contact with water. Redness (erythema) may be transient or persistent and is most often on the cheeks, nose and chin. Flaking appears where the stratum corneum is thinnest. The skin is prone to microfissures, and the feeling of dryness does not go away even after moisturising. Note: sensitivity is not allergy, although the two can coexist. An allergic reaction is an immune response to a specific allergen, whereas sensitivity is a non-specific reactivity of the barrier.

How to choose the right routine

Good care for sensitive skin rests on three principles: minimalism, barrier repair and protection. Cleansing — gentle sulphate-free products at pH 5.0–5.5, alcohol-free micellar water. Moisturising — products with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and allantoin; avoid fragrance, essential oils and harsh preservatives. Protection — SPF 30–50 with mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide), which are less irritating than chemical ones. The "14 days" rule — test every new product on a small area behind the ear for two weeks. Do not change more than one product in your routine at a time, so that the cause of any reaction can be identified.

A daily routine for sensitive skin

Morning: gentle cleansing with a sulphate-free gel or foam, an alcohol-free toner with niacinamide, a moisturiser with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, and sun protection at SPF 50 with mineral filters. Evening: remove make-up with an oil cleanser or micellar water, cleanse gently with the same gel, then a repairing cream or balm with panthenol and shea butter. Weekly: a moisturising mask with aloe and oatmeal. Avoid completely: scrubs with abrasive particles, alcohol toners, glycolic acid peels above 5%, retinol products without a period of adaptation, and washing with hot water.

When to see a dermatologist

See a dermatologist if redness and discomfort persist for two weeks despite adjusting your routine, if persistent lesions or papules appear (rosacea is possible), if sensitivity has increased sharply for no visible reason, if no moisturiser relieves the feeling of tightness, or if the reactivity of your skin is affecting your quality of life — making it difficult to wear make-up, to be in the sun or to be in air-conditioned rooms.